Surviving Your First Dutch Winter: A Guide for South Africans

Dark at half past four, rain, wind and no braai weather. How to survive (and even enjoy) your first Dutch winter when you’re used to South African sunshine.
Man cycling on a wet street on a rainy Dutch winter day

Your first Dutch winter is a shock if you come from South Africa. It’s not the cold that gets you, it’s the dark. On the shortest days the sun sets at around half past four, and plenty of days are grey, wet and windy. The good news: with a bit of preparation it’s very doable, and it even has its cosy side.

Short answer: get proper rain gear, make sure you get enough vitamin D, get outside during daylight, and lean into Dutch gezelligheid: Christmas markets, light festivals and warm drinks indoors.

What a Dutch winter is really like

  • The clocks go back on Sunday 25 October 2026, and from then on it’s dark early
  • It’s more wet than freezing. Winters here are usually mild, grey and damp, with rain and wind rather than lots of snow
  • The wind is the real enemy, especially near the coast. A windy 5°C feels much colder
  • Snow is rare, and natural ice for skating even rarer. When it happens, the whole country goes skating mad

Get the right gear

  • A waterproof, windproof jacket with a hood. Umbrellas don’t survive Dutch wind
  • Rain trousers if you cycle. Every Dutch person owns a pair
  • Waterproof shoes and warm socks
  • Layers instead of one heavy coat. You’ll go from cold outside to warm trains and shops all day
  • Bike lights. It’s dark on your commute, and cycling without lights gets you a fine

Vitamin D and the dark

In winter the sun is too weak for your skin to make enough vitamin D. According to Thuisarts, people with a darker skin tone are advised to take extra vitamin D all year round, and the same goes for some other groups, like people who are rarely outside, pregnant women, women over 50 and people over 70. Check whether that applies to you, or ask your huisarts.

Beyond that, the dark can get to you. Things that help:

  • Get outside during daylight, even just a lunchtime walk
  • Exercise: join a gym, a sports club or a running group
  • Keep your social calendar full. The Dutch don’t hibernate, they just move indoors
  • Talk to your huisarts if you feel low for weeks. Winter blues are common, and you don’t have to just push through

Embrace gezelligheid

The Dutch answer to winter is gezelligheid: that cosy, warm, together feeling. Candles, soup, board games, a drink in a warm brown café while it pours outside. Once you get it, winter becomes a lot more fun.

Things to look forward to

  • Sinterklaas in November and early December. Here’s Sinterklaas explained
  • Amsterdam Light Festival, from 26 November 2026 to 17 January 2027
  • Christmas markets in towns and cities across the country
  • Oliebollen: deep-fried dough balls with powdered sugar, sold from stalls everywhere around New Year
  • Ice skating on temporary rinks, and on natural ice if you’re lucky

A few practical tips

  • Heating costs: Dutch homes are well insulated, but energy isn’t cheap. Keep doors closed and use a thermostat schedule
  • Ventilate anyway: open a window for a bit every day to prevent damp and mould
  • Winter tyres aren’t compulsory in the Netherlands, but plenty of people use all-season tyres
  • Plan a sunny escape. A week somewhere warm in February does wonders

Missing a South African summer?

It’s normal to feel homesick when everyone back home is posting beach and braai photos in December. Plan a video call on Christmas Day, stock up on South African treats, and find other Saffas to celebrate with through the South African community.

FAQ

How cold does it get in the Netherlands in winter?

Usually not extremely cold. Winters are mostly mild, grey and wet, with the occasional frosty spell. The wind makes it feel colder than the temperature suggests.

When does it get dark in the Netherlands in winter?

Around the shortest day in December, the sun sets at around half past four in the afternoon.

Does it snow in the Netherlands?

Sometimes, but not much, and it rarely stays for long.

New here? Start with my survival guide for South African expats.

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