A Week in a Camper Van at the Zugspitze: Hiking, Biking and Paddle Boarding in the Bavarian Alps

A week in a camper van at the foot of Germany's highest mountain. Hiking, mountain biking, paddle boarding on the crazy clear Eibsee and a trip to the top of the Zugspitze. Here's how it went and what to know before you go.
The Zugspitze reflected in the clear water of the Eibsee in the Bavarian Alps

If you’re thinking about a camper trip to the Zugspitze area, this one’s for you. We just spent a week there and honestly, it was amazing. Spoiler: do it.

Where we stayed

We spent the week at Camping-Resort Zugspitze in Grainau, a little village right at the foot of the mountain, just down the road from Garmisch-Partenkirchen. And the location is unreal. You wake up, open the van door, and there’s a massive mountain staring right back at you. Not a bad way to start your morning coffee.

Having the camper meant we could just park up, set up camp and use it as a base for the week. No packing and unpacking bags every day. Just grab your stuff and go.

Going up the Zugspitze mountain

Okay, the big one. The Zugspitze is the highest mountain in Germany at almost 3,000 metres, so of course we had to go up.

There are a couple of ways to get to the top. You can take the cable car from the Eibsee, which is super fast and the views on the way up are crazy. Or you can take the cog railway from Garmisch, which goes through the mountain and up to the glacier, and then a smaller cable car takes you the rest of the way.

At the top, you can see four countries on a clear day, and you’re literally standing on the border between Germany and Austria. It’s cold up there though, even when it’s warm down in the valley. Bring a jacket. Trust me.

Paddle boarding on the Eibsee

If you only do one thing in this area, go to the Eibsee. It’s a lake right at the bottom of the Zugspitze, and the water is this crazy clear green and blue colour. It honestly looks fake.

We rented paddle boards and spent time out on the water for two hours, and it was one of the highlights of the whole trip. Paddling around on a crystal clear lake with a giant mountain above you is just something else. There are little islands in the lake too, so you can paddle around and explore.

Tip: get there early. It gets busy, especially on nice days, and the parking fills up fast.

Hiking

The hiking around here is next level. Whether you want an easy walk or something that’ll make your legs burn for days, there’s something for everyone.

The Eibsee loop

This is the perfect easy hike to start with. It’s a loop of around 7 km all the way around the lake, and it’s pretty flat, so anyone can do it. It took us about two hours with plenty of stops, because every few minutes you get a new view of that crazy clear water with the Zugspitze towering above it. There are little beaches and rocky spots along the way where you can sit down, dip your feet in or just take it all in. If you’re only going to do one walk here, make it this one.

Partnach Gorge (Partnachklamm)

This one starts near the big Olympic ski jump in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, which is pretty cool to see on its own. The gorge itself is something else. You walk along a narrow path carved into the rock, through tunnels, with a wild river rushing right next to you and water dripping from the walls. It’s loud, it’s wet, and it’s awesome. There’s a small entry fee, and bring a jacket because you will get a bit wet from the spray. It’s not a long walk, so it’s easy to fit into a day.

Höllentalklamm

If you liked the Partnachklamm, the Höllentalklamm takes it up a notch. It starts from Hammersbach, right near Grainau, so it’s close to the campsite. The first part is a proper uphill hike to get to the gorge, so your legs will feel it. Then you get into the gorge itself, with tunnels through the rock, waterfalls everywhere and a raging river below you. It’s more rugged and wild than the Partnachklamm, and it feels like a real adventure. Again, there’s a small entry fee, and good shoes and a rain jacket are a must. It’s only open in the warmer months, so check before you go.

Alpine pasture circular hike in the Gaistal (Austria)

This was a nice bonus. The Gaistal is a valley in the Seefeld region in Austria, and the great thing is that you can just drive there with the camper from the Zugspitze area. Easy day trip.

The hike is a loop past a few alpine huts (the Austrians call them Alms), with big green meadows, cows with bells, and mountains all around you. It’s the kind of place that looks like a postcard everywhere you point your camera. The best part is stopping at the huts along the way for a cold drink and something to eat. It’s a totally different vibe from the gorges. Much more chilled, open and peaceful. If you’re staying at the Zugspitze, this is 100% worth the drive.

Good shoes are a must. Some of the paths get rocky and steep, and the weather in the mountains can change really fast. Always pack a rain jacket, even if it looks sunny when you leave.

Mountain biking

We had big plans to rent bikes for a day, but honestly, there was just too much to do and we ran out of time. So this one’s going on the list for next time. But I did do some digging, so if you’ve got a spare day, here’s what you need to know.

You can rent an e-mountain bike for a day for about €49, which is a great deal. And trust me, you’ll want the “e” part. The climbs around here are steep, and with a bit of electric help you can go way further and still enjoy the views instead of just staring at your front wheel.

Here are some routes that look amazing:

Partnachalm and Reintal loop
A real classic. You start at the Olympic ski stadium in Garmisch, climb up to the Partnachalm hut, then ride into the Reintal valley with the Wetterstein mountains all around you. On the way back you get big views of the Zugspitze before heading down to the Partnach Gorge. It takes around 3 hours, so it’s a nice one to start with.

Esterbergalm loop
This one starts at the Wank cable car station in Garmisch. The first part is a proper climb up to the Esterbergalm, a mountain hut where you can stop for food and a well earned drink. After that, it’s mostly downhill back to town. Hard work first, fun second. This is where an e-bike really pays off.

Geroldsee loop
A longer ride of around 4.5 hours, starting from Garmisch station. There’s a steep climb through the forest, then a lot of up and down until you reach the Geroldsee, a small lake with one of the most famous views in Bavaria. On the way back you can jump into the Kainzenbad natural swimming pool to cool off.

Törlenweg: Eibsee and Zugspitze views
This one’s for the fitter riders. It starts in Hammersbach near Grainau and it’s about 30 km with close to 1,000 metres of climbing. You get great views over the Eibsee and the Zugspitze, but it’s a tough ride and you might have to push your bike in some places.

The Gaistal (Austria)
Remember the Gaistal from our hike? It’s also a brilliant valley for biking. Wide gravel paths, alpine huts, cows and mountains everywhere. If you want something a bit more relaxed with amazing views, this one’s great.

Tip: download the routes on an app like Komoot or Outdooractive before you go. Signal can be patchy in the mountains, and some of the trails are shared with hikers, so ride nicely.

Why a camper van is the way to do it

Honestly, this area is made for camper trips. Everything is close by, the campsite has everything you need, and you’ve got total freedom to go wherever you want each day. Hike one day, bike the next, lake the day after. No planning around hotel check-in times or restaurants.

Plus, sitting outside the van in the evening with a drink and the mountains turning pink as the sun goes down? Hard to beat.

A few tips if you’re planning a trip

  • Go in September if you can. It’s quieter than peak summer and the weather is still great.
  • Pack layers. It can be warm in the valley and freezing at the top of the Zugspitze on the same day.
  • Get to the Eibsee early. Parking and the paddle board rentals get busy.
  • Check the weather before going up the Zugspitze. If it’s cloudy, you won’t see much from the top, so pick a clear day.
  • Rent bikes for at least one day. It’s the best way to explore more of the area.

Would I go back?

100%. The Zugspitze area is one of the most beautiful places we’ve been. Mountains, lakes, forests, fresh air and lots to do. If you’re into the outdoors at all, put this one on your list.

Now I just need to figure out when we can go back.

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